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Cindie's Peru #1 Daily Journal
Travel Writing, Blog, Travelogue
Ecuadorian Border
to Huallanca, Peru
(Aug. 5 - Sept. 14, 2003)

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Tim's Letter for this Journal

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Aug 5 Macara - Tambo Grande.  We leave Ecuador today.  Ecuador has been a pleasant surprise for us.  The people have been extremely friendly, helpful and all around fun.  The mountains have been beautiful, wet and cold.  The cost was a little more than we expected but not too bad.  The only place I felt it was a bit dangerous was Quito, but that is true with most large cities.

We woke up to a cloudy damp day, such a change from the day before when it was hot and sunny.  Border crossing days always make me nervous, however I did hear that this border crossing was easy.  We arrived at Ecuador immigration, located 3 km from Macara, at about 8:30 am.  No other tourists was there.  I proceeded to get our exit stamps.  The immigration officer asked me for my tourist card, hmm, I do not remember getting one.  I told him I did not have one.  He then asked if we flew in and I said yes.  I guess they do not hand them out on airplanes or I just got lucky.  He stamped us out and we were on our way.

We crossed the short bridge to the Peru side, I went to immigrations, he stamped us in for 90 days and then we were done.  Wow, 15 minutes to cross into Peru.  Our first encounters with the locals were not very pleasant.  OK, I am going to say it, the men are pigs. No respect and I will leave it at that.

We originally thought that we would stay at Los Lomas, 50 km from the border but we arrived there at 11:30 am.  I went to the bank and changed $50 dollars to 172 sols, at an exchange rate of 3.44.  I asked the bank clerk if I could change a travelers check and he said that the bank did not accept them, only US dollars.  This is a first.  The town itself look shabby and worn out.  Instead of cars everyone was traveling around in motorcycle taxis or tuktuks as they say in Thailand.  We had lunch and moved on down the road towards Tambo Grande.

As we were pedaling down the road we looked over at a crowd around a pole full of flags.  It turns out that the flags were attached to a bamboo pole that was attached to, yes, a bicycle.  This is when we met Rodrigo from Brazil.  He has been bike touring for 4 years.  Yes, 4 years, he looked it too, tan, thin, and no front teeth.  He spoke Portuguese and was very hard to understand.  He carried the strangest things on his bike, a full size bicycle pump and a hand pump (this was not too strange) a vase with a plastic rose (I thought this was strange), and out of his bag he pulled a large scrap book with all his newspaper clippings and I thought we carried too much.  He was certainly an interesting character, he gave us some contacts in Chicalayo and Trujillo.

Thirty more kilometers down the road and we came to Tambo Grande, our map showed that the road we wanted was paved, it was NOT. This is one of the shabbiest towns I have ever seen.  Someone, like the government, started a large road through town and then did not finish it.  There was not a piece of pavement anywhere just dirt.  We managed to find our way out of town and a place to camp along the road.  We decided not to put up the tent, that was a mistake the mosquitoes kept us up all night.

95 km
Aug 6 Tambo Grande - La Cincuenta.  We got on the road early and it was a pleasant morning.  People seemed surprised to see us yet they were friendly.  I always find that the people in the country are much more approachable than in the city.  The area is heavily irrigated, therefore it is green and supports a huge bird population.  It is good to see parrots that I normally have seen in pet stores with clipped wings out flying around in noisy flocks.

The houses are pretty basic, no running water, no electricity, no TV.  Water is brought to the house by a man with a donkey cart carrying water in 55 gallon drums.  The one good thing I saw was that each house had an outhouse, built by some country giving aid, each outhouse was on a concrete slap and had a vent pipe.  I did notice that the water in the area was cleaner.  I would say it was a good use of aid money.  The road was dirt for about 35 km and the last 10 were riding over river rock.  We had lunch in Chulucanes, a town of about 10,000 people or more.  They did not have any running water either.  They had the pipes but they did not work.  So again water was delivered by donkey cart.  What kind of government leaves a city of this size without water.  I can see that Peru is going to be interesting.

We camped in the desert about 5 km outside of the town of Cincenta.  We had a family of goat herders come visit us.  She really marveled at my $15 Casio watch.  These people do not have anything, they do not even have many goats because the land has been over grazed.  Silviania, the mom, told me that there is no work in town, no money, and too many people living off the land.  I felt like a king with all my pots and pans, clothes, fancy bike and store bought food.  Poverty is a terrible thing to see.

35 km dirt

11 km road

Aug 7 La Cincuenta - Km 139  We slept out under the stars, they were extremely bright tonight.  We both slept soundly after our lack of sleep the night before.  Some how the time flew in the morning and we were on the road late at 9:00 am.  Ten minutes down the road, Tim got another flat.  That front tire is a piece of crap, the rubber is very thin and soft in places and it flats easily.

The road was mostly rolling hills.  While we were in the middle of the desert in the middle of the day we met two french cyclists going the other way.  Phillip and Violaine have been on a bike tour around the world.  They have been through Africa, SE Asia, New Zealand and were finishing their trip in South America.  They rode from Santiago, Chile to northern Peru in just 3.5 months.  They certainly have been putting in the miles.  Their web site is  it is in french.  Phillip gave us the names of hotels for the next couple of cities we are going to. 

We had dinner in a small little village and then found a place to camp.  A number of roads in this area have been washed out by the meandering river.  We camped on a portion of an old abandoned road.

62 km
Aug 8 Km 139 to Olmos.  It was a quick ride into town.  We were tempted to keep going but we decided we needed a day off.  I left Tim in the Plaza in search of a hotel room.  I asked where Hostel Peligrino was and no one seemed to know.  Finally, a young man pointed me in a direction, turns out it was the wrong direction.  When I came back to the Plaza Tim had about 20 people around him including two police officers.  Tim was glad the officers were there.  I found the Hostel and got Tim out of the plaza.

We finally made our way to Hospedaje Peligrino, we got a room for 17 sols/night ($4.94).  It was basic with cold water but a welcome change from tent camping.

44 km
Aug 9 Olmos.  Rest day.  I went in search for a bank today and did not find one, interesting.  The market is lively and has a lot more to chose from than in the other towns we have been in in northern Peru.  Again, people do not seem to have much money, this condition always makes me nervous.   
Aug 10 Olmos to Chiclayo.  Tim put the hammer down today.  Luckily we had a cloudy day and the wind did not kick up until later in the day.  We started early and had to wear a long sleeve jersey for the first couple of hours, this is in a desert where the sun can bake you pretty quickly.  As we rode into the town of Motupe we got behind a motorcycle taxi and drafted for about 5 km (3 miles).

We splurged on our room, I really wanted a hot shower, we stayed at the Hostel Sol Radiante for 30 sols ($8.74)/ night.

105 km

66 mi

Aug 11 Chiclayo.  We dropped our laundry off  and went grocery shopping.   
Aug 12 Chiclayo.  Went to the Bruning Museum in Lambeyaque.  The museum has a very interesting display of local art dating back over 1,000 years.  There is an entire room devoted to gold ornaments, an incredible display.  
Aug 13 Chiclayo.  Spent the day wandering around Chiclayo. I went to the Witch Doctors market where they sell all kinds of herbal remedies, charms, and stones for all that ails you.  It was small but extremely interesting.  Every type of herb imaginable was dried and ready for use.  In addition there were a lot of oriental remedies too.  
Aug 14 Chiclayo.  Spent the day repairing equipment.  I found a place to fix Tim's shoes, he can not buy a new pair down here, his feet are too big.  We realized that back in the USA we probably would have bought a new pair.  However, here it is cheap and easy to get shoes fixed.  I also found a women who would repair Tim's gloves, they had a hole, again, we probably would have bought a new pair in the USA.  When I went looking for a shoe repair shop I found 10 all together.  When I went looking for a women with a sewing machine, again I found 10 all together.  I do not understand why this occurs in Latin America.  When you find a paint shop you find 10.  How do people get ahead when their competition is right next to them?

We initially planning to leave tomorrow.  But with many chores on the internet to do we will stay another day.

Aug 15 Chiclayo - Pascamayo.  The ride out of Chiclayo was cloudy and the wind was not too strong, in the morning.  As the day went on the wind had picked up.  We rode through dunes and rock and then through an oasis created by irrigation.  Numerous fields of corn, sugar cane and peppers fill the desert in the irrigated areas.  By the time we arrived at Pascamayo we were very tired, the head wind slowed us to a mere 12 km per hour (7 mph).  We stayed at the Hostel Pan Americano, l large bed, shower with cold water and cable TV all for 20 soles/ night.  One of our best values yet.  As we were carrying the bags up the stair and older women said she wanted to help so she grabbed Tim's two rear bags and carried them effortlessly up to the room.  I have never seen a local man do this (Tim can) never less an older women who was stronger than an ox.  I think I know who does all the work around here.

Some of the men on the other hand are being obnoxious, for some reason (they like to stare) the men on the motorcycle cabs like to ride right behind me, I dislike this immensely.  Tim has to chase them off like he would chase off a pack of dogs.

Speaking of dogs, we get chased daily.  However, we brought a new weapon with us from USA.   At the end of our trip in Central America Tim was having problems with his radio antenna.  So we bought a new one and kept the old one for battle with the dogs.  It has been the most effective weapon Tim has used to date.  All Tim has to do is pull it out and start swinging, all the dogs stop dead in their tracks.  Tim has never had to hit one, they never get that close anymore.

It was Friday night and a band was set up just down the street.  The band played well into the evening, it was an inauguration celebration.  We did not get much sleep.

101 km

64 mi

Aug 16 Pascamayo - Puente Chicama.  We decided to try and ride to the beach town of Chicama.  I thought that it was closer than it really was so psychologically I was ready stop long before we arrived in town.  Luckily it was paved the entire way.  When we arrived we went down to the beach to take some pictures.  This is when we met Michael and El Mar (the sea).  Yes, the young man introduced himself as El Mar and Tim introduced himself as El Bici (the bike).   I then went looking for a place to stay.  The first hospedaje I went to I did not like.  Eventually I made it over to Hospedaje Chino Moreno.  Chino won out, he had hot water.  We had a small room with two beds, shared bath with hot water for 15 soles/ night.  Reasonable.  Later in the evening Chino told us that the Discos in the area blare their music until 5:00 am.  He was not kidding.  The music ragged all night long.  They should take those noisy things out away from town.  I even had ear plugs and still did not get a good nights sleep. 69 km

44 mi

Aug 17 Puerto Chicama.  I woke up this morning feeling like I had a hangover.  No I did not drink, I just did not sleep.  Chino told me that the water is turned on for only two hours a day and that now was a good time to do laundry.  Great, my eyes are not even open and I am standing in front of a sink washing clothes.  I managed to wash most of our clothes in the next hour before the water turned off.

The rest of the day I felt bad.  The cold sore that I had is not going away and is spreading, not typical behavior for a cold sore.  I looked through my medical book and it described impetigo, a bacteria infection that starts out looking like a cold sore. I do believe this is what I have.  The book said I need an antibacterial ointment and some antibiotics.  Luckily, I happen to have both so time will tell if I can get rid of this infection, it is wearing me out.

Aug 18 Puerto Chicama.  Walked all over Chicama, beach pier.  
Aug 19 Puerto Chicama.  Tim's Birthday.  Sorry Tim but I am sick for your birthday.  I was up most of the night running to the bathroom.  But I thought, oh I can make it to Trujillo.  In the morning we packed up and we were ready to go.  This is when I realized that I was sicker than I thought.  Chino and Anna our hosts at the hospedaje insisted that I go to the doctor.  OK.  I was feeling like I was infested with bacteria everywhere.

Tim and Chino escorted me down to the Clinic.  It cost 5 soles ($1.45) for administration, they took my blood pressure and weight.  Next I saw the doctor.  Chino assisted with my story of where we ate last night and I had my dictionary too. The doctor shooed Chino out and let Tim stay.   Next the doctor checked my stomach with a stethoscope while my stomach was making horrendous noises.  He prescribed an antibiotic called cefadroxilo for 5 days.  He said it would clear up my bacteria infection on my face too. (thank god, this is getting old).  The cost of the antibiotic, 20 soles ($5.81) for a 5 day treatment.  The doctor said that I should not eat any vegetables, fish, drink carbonated water, juices and sweets in general for the first couple of days.  He said that all this would be too hard on my stomach.

I went back to the house and was too weak to do anything.  So I slept for most of the day.  Anna made me chicken soup with noodles.  It was nice to have someone taking care of me.  Towards the end of the day I was feeling much better.  I decided that I needed another day to recuperate and then we would go to Trujillo.  It turns out that my sickness was a blessing to Chino and his family.  They did not know where they were going to get the money to eat.  There is no work in town, the factory is shut down because the pier was broke during a storm two months ago.  There has been no work in town since.  Everyone here is hurting.  We are the only tourists in town.  This is difficult living.  So I really do not mind staying for another day or two.

Aug 20 Puerto Chicama.  Rested most of the day.  
Aug 21 Puerto Chicama - Trujillo.  We loaded up our bikes and were ready to go.  Checked the tires and yes Tim's front wheel had a flat again.  We are buying a new tire in Trujillo, I would throw this one away now if I could.  Once on the road, the ride was pretty smooth for the first two and a half hours.  The road was flat, the sky was cloudy even a bit cold, and the wind was not too strong yet.  We stopped for some soup that cost 1.5 soles (45 cents), the soup warmed us up.  After lunch we met Hamilton, a cyclist from Brazil.  He was heading north and had a great tailwind.  He asked us if we had any maps and we had just given away our last one.  Sorry.  Hamilton also planned to cycle around the world so we may see him again.

Chino from Puerto Chicama gave us a name of a place to stay in Trujillo.  A place where traveling cyclists stop.  Luis D'Angelo (Lucho) has lots of information from other cyclists such as maps and route descriptions.  Just what we needed.  Luis and his family take in cyclists and only ask for a donation or assistance around the house.  It is a cyclists paradise the front room is covered with posters of racing cyclists and is also a bike shop where repairs can be made.

We met Susanna and Mariziso from Chili, they are traveling with their dog Trago ( a huge yellow lab).  Fritz another cyclist from Germany is also here.

70 km

44 mi

Aug 22 Caught up on our laundry today.  Walked around Trujillo.  The taxi drivers in Peru let you know quick that they own the road.  I fear for my life every time I cross the street.  We have gotten to know Lucho and his family a little more.  Arecilli makes cakes to sell in the market across the street.  Of course I have to try every one.  She makes Flan, Meringue pie, Strawberry and custard pie.  Yum.  
Aug 23 It turns out that Fritz is riding the same way we are so we are going to ride together.  We plan to leave on Monday or Tuesday.  It just so easy to hang around here.  Lucho is very hospitable.  Lucho has been taking in cyclists for over 10 years,  he offers them a place to stay and does not ask for much in return.  This is a lot for some one from Peru where making ends meet can be very difficult. 

Lucho had a dream of seeing the Tour de France.  So three years ago a group of cyclists who had stayed at his place got together and bought him a ticket to go to France.  He arrived with 800 dollars in his pocket, a wealth of money for Peru.  Another cyclist supplied him with an upper level pass for the first day so he could mingle amongst the teams as they were warming up.  When the race leader Jacque LeBlanc found out that he was from Peru and had only 800 dollars for his entire stay he supplied him with a pass for the entire Tour De France and accommodations in 5 star hotels or with teams.  Amazing.  He watched the race for the team cars.  He showed us an interview he did with French television.  He got autographs of many of the cyclists and photos of Lance Armstrong and George Hencepie.  Wow.  This could not have happen to a better guy.  I am extremely impressed with the generosity of the Le Blanc and the whole racing community. Lucho said he had to keep telling himself that it was really happening.

Aug 24 We decided to ride our bikes to Chan Chan today.  Angela, Lucho's 9 year old daughter went with us.  Tim, Fritz and I received a personal tour of Chan Chan.  
Aug 25 Suzanna, Mariziso and Trango left today, it was sad to see them go.  Aricelli and I went to the temple of El Sol and la Luna.  
Aug 26 Trujillo.  We planned on leaving today but could not get out the door.  
Aug 27 Trujillo - Chao  Lucho rode with us to Viru where we had lunch.  He turned back towards Trujillo and we continued on to Chao.  Luckily the wind was relatively calm for most of the ride.  We stayed at a Hospedaje that over charged us, 40 sols for three people, they said that they had hot water but we could not get it to work.

Tim had a new front tire that he did not plan on using past today.  The tire was made of cheap rubber and was warped.  We can not say the Lucho did not warn us.  So Tim traded his new useless tire for the old one.  I searched for the cause of all Tim's flats and found two thorns hidden in the tire.  Lets hope that this fixes the problem.

66 km
Aug 28 Chao (70 m, 230 ft.) - Tanguche.  The first 15 kilometers were flat and fast, again we did not have much of a head wind.  The private road turn off was easy to find, it was 15 kilometers from the Chao bridge.  The road is gated but the security guard gladly opens the gate for you. The road was dirt but in pretty good condition.  We rode to within 5 kilometers on Tanguche and decided to camp near the irrigation canal.  The information we had said that there were no camping areas after Tanguche.  The desert was windy, dry, and void of much vegetation.  We decided to pitch the tent for the night because the wind was so strong. 15 km

17 km dirt

Aug 29 Tanguche (100 m, 328 ft.) - Chuquicara.  In the morning we were packing up the tent, and I noticed a small scorpion run out from under the tent that Tim was rolling up.  Yikes, we were on alert.  Next Tim picked up the tent bag and a huge scorpion ran out from under it.  He was clear, I could see all this part, in Arizona, we considered the clear transparent scorpions more dangerous then the big ugly brown ones.

We were flying down the road, launched off a rock, came down just right and broke clips on my rear bag and front bag.

42 km dirt
Aug 30 Chuquicara (500 m, 1640 ft.) - Waterfall.  Tim looses a screw on his front rack.  He fixes it with a cleat screw, lucky it fit. 42 km dirt
Aug 31 Waterfall ( 1200 m 3935 ft.) - Huallanca.  I woke up not feeling well.  Took a day quil for my stuffy nose, mistake.  Hot over heated, stopped at the hospedaje, the bathroom and shower where in the same room, using the same hole in the floor.  Nope will not do it.  We moved on to Huallanca, 15 kilometers down the road.

Tim had a fever of 101.4.  I had a fever of 99.8.  Oh now I was sick again.  This is the third time since we arrived in south america.

38 km dirt
Sept 1 Huallanca (1300 m, 4265 ft.) .  Fritz now has a fever.  We are all laying low with our illnesses.  
Sept 2 Huallanca.  We decided to stay one more day.  We had our laundry done by our Hostel owner's daughter.  She would not say what the price was when she left with our clothes.  Not a good sign.  When she came back our clothes were sparkling clean.  Tim and I agreed that we would not pay more than 15 soles ($4.00).  She must have read our mind because she said it was 15 soles, this is when the Hostel owner said, "Ask for 20 soles, no pay 20 soles".  Word must have gotten out that the gringos were paying a lot for things because after this everyone was trying to inflate the prices on us.  It was like a feeding frenzy.  I did see the laundry lady later buying bread.  I realized that she would not have bought the bread if she had not done our laundry.  What a hard way to survive.  
Sept 3 Huallanca - Carez .  We had a nice ride today.  We rode through 36 tunnels.  The canyon was stunning.  We steadily climbed out of the heat of Huallanca.  The road finally turned to pavement 13 kilometers (7 miles) from town.  Still weak from the cold.  Stayed in Hostel Chavin, 10 soles each, warm water. 39 km
Sept 4 Carez. (2290 m, 7510 ft.) I slept all day today trying to recover from my cold.  Fritz also slept all day trying to recover from his stomach problems.  
Sept 5 Carez.  Still recovering from that cold.  
Sept 6 Carez.  Went on a hike up in the mountains today.  The peaks were beautiful but the sun was not right for taking pictures.  We did visit the town of Pueblo Libre and then we walked all the way back to Carez.  A good 10 kilometers (6 miles) or so.  
Sept 7 Carez - Carhaus (2700 m, 8855 ft.)  I felt like I was going to fall off my bike today.  I still have a cold and I can not breath.  Luckily for me, Fritz and Tim wanted to go slow and enjoy the beautiful scenery.  Awesome snow capped peaks to our left and tall jagged brown peaks to our right.  We passed through the town of Yunguy, the new town.  On May 31, 1970 an earthquake shook this area and caused a landslide to bury the (old) town.  Approximately, 18,000 people perished.  A new town is built up out of the valley.  The scar of the huge landslide can still be scene from the highway.

In Carhaus we stayed at Hostal La Merced.  15 soles per person in one room, highway robbery.  The room was pleasant enough just more expensive than usual.  The water was hot but Tim unfortunately got a cold shower.


37 km
Sept 8 Carhuas - Huarez (3090 m, 10,135 ft.).  We climbed higher all day.  The scenery was again stunning.  In Huarez we stayed at Hostel Oscar with plenty of hot water.  The cost was 13 soles per person.  The room was much nicer.

Ascended 560 m (1835 ft.) and descended 170 (555 ft.)

34 km
Sept 9 Huarez.  Found an internet cafe for 1.5 soles ($0.45) an hour.  Did laundry cost 3 sols ($0.90) per kilo this was a bit high but we wanted our clothes to dry.  Wandered around the market, it is huge.  Everything is for sale, fruits and vegetables, household items.  Also, they were selling a type of fungus, it was white and gray.  It smelled to high heaven ( a putrid smell), we had to move through the area as fast as we could.  There are a lot of tourists here, more than anywhere else we have been in Peru.  It always puzzles me how to meet other foreigners.  We never did figure it out so we did not really meet anyone.

Took a nap in the afternoon.  We are adjusting to the altitude.

Sept 10 Huarez.  Ran errands all day, grocery shopping, last minute emails, bought a converter for Tim's batteries so we can still charge them.  Spent the evening packing, we had our bags completely empty.  
Sept 11 Huarez - Catac (3600 m, 11,800 ft.)  On the ride to Catac we had at least three dog attacks, the dogs are getting more vicious as we get higher.  One dog was so close to Tim he could hit it with the antenna, so much for the antenna after that, never to be used again. 

Stayed in Hostel Yarir, 10 soles per person.  We had an electric shower that was just barely hot enough.  Tim was taking a shower and the power went out, so you can guess how cold the water was.  He had a hard time finding his way out of the bathroom and then trying to rinse all the soap off.

I unfortunately slipped going down the stairs.  I should have know better than to run around in my socks.  I hit the stairs in a few places and traveled down at least 5 stairs before I managed to stop myself.  Ouch!!

While we were in Huarez we found a map that showed a new paved road on it.  Now we had the choice to go over the mountain pass via dirt road up to 4800 m, 15,745 ft. or take a paved road that covered two lower passes.  Since we had plenty of dirt road ahead of us, Tim and I decided to take the paved road.  On the other hand, Fritz wanted to take the dirt road through the national park.  We decided we would part ways at the park entrance and meet up again in Huallanca.  We knew it would take us two days to get to Huallanca and Fritz would get there in one day.  We agreed to meet at Hostel Yessica in Huallanca.  I did not like seeing Fritz ride off into the wilderness alone, but I knew I would see him again, I hoped.

Ascended 760 m ( 2493 ft.) and descended 150 m (492 ft.)

36 km
Sept 12 Catac - Conococha (4050 m, 13,285 ft.).  We left Fritz at the park entrance and we headed south while Fritz headed east.  To the east the weather looked like a storm was rolling in.  We had a nice gentle climb towards Conococha.  In mid afternoon the weather changed to windy and then rainy.  We have not seen rain since Ecuador and were not too happy to see it at this high elevation. 

As we were riding up a hill we could see three dogs gathering at the top of the hill in the distance.  They were waiting for us, when we were next to them the lead dog came down to chase us and the other two followed.  I had two dogs to my left and suddenly Tim had four dogs to his right.  I had a rock and actually hit a dog that was going for my leg.  Still the other dogs kept coming.  We topped the pass and started down the hill.  We had shaken off five of the six dogs and then another two came down from the hills.  Again, they were going for my legs.  Luckily we had the benefit of the down hill so we finally out ran them.

We arrived in Conococha wet, cold and hungry.  We found the only Hospedaje called an Alojamiento right about the time it began to snow.  Snow is better it is not so wet.  The room was expensive, it was a room with a bunk bed and a queen size bed.  If we used the one bed it was 14 soles and if we used two beds it was 20 soles.  Highway robbery, there was not even a light in the room, only a candle.  The bathroom was an outhouse, a nasty one at that, and a shower was out of the question. We decided to eat before settling into the room.  The only food on the menu was fish, trout, but I would not eat anything out of the streams around here.  To contaminated from all the mining around here.  We settled on rice and eggs.  I did ask someone else for a place to stay and took a look at that room.  If you can believe it, it was worse.  The floor was dirt and damp, the bed was small and sunk in the middle and the pig pen was right next door.  So we went back to the first place.  The young guy who ran the place asked about the USA.  We went to bed at night fall, good thing too, there is no electricity in this town, a first for us.  In the middle of the night the young guy came barging into the room with another person, he wanted to rent out the bed next to us.  The poor guy he had with him was as shocked as we were when he opened the door.  In the morning we left as early as we could.  On our way out the young guy asked us for a gift, we already paid way too much for the room, Tim gave him one of our fliers.

Ascended 750 m ( 2460 ft.) and descended 245 m ( 804 ft.)

45 km
Sept 13 Conococha - Pachapaqui (3900 m, 12792 ft).  Not 3 kms into the ride, we had yet another dog attack.  This time only two, but two large dogs.  We were at a slight decline so we just kept pedaling, one dog stayed with us for over a kilometer, it must have a lot of practice chasing trucks.  This road is brand new and is not on very many maps, so we were heading into new territory, sort of.  The road was is great shape, at a good grade, and with minimal traffic.  The road was built by a Canadian mining company for the Alta Mina mine.  The road is used to haul equipment and chemicals to the mine (gold mine).  The truck drivers drove slow, gave us plenty of room and appeared to be very safety conscious, unlike the rest of Peru.

I was hoping we would make it all the way to Huallanca but a good stiff head wind slowed us down.  We climbed to a pass of 4280 m (14,035 ft.) and descended to an elevation of 3500 m (11,480 ft.).  We gently climbed up to Pachapaqui but still the head wind was strong.  In Pachapaqui we had lunch.  We decided to buy water in this town, the water coming out of the tap did not look very good, it was full of sediment and who knows what else.  After our experience last night we decided to camp rather than stay in a Hospedaje.  We camped at 3940 m (12,920 ft.).  It was cold and the wind made it worse. 

The people who live in this valley are mostly sheep farmers.  They are not use to foreigners and the kids were actually afraid of us.  While we were putting up our tent two little girls watched us put it up.  (I know, it is dangerous not to hide but we had no choice).  They could not believe what we were doing.  No one bothered us all night.  In the morning a couple of boys herded their sheep through our camp.  I guess we were in the way.  I thought we would see llamas by now but all we have seen are sheep, horses and lots of dogs.

Ascended 720 m ( 2362 ft.) and descended 835 m ( 2739 ft.)

41 km
Sept 14 Pachapaqui - Huallanca (Huanuco).  We stayed in out tent until the sun hit us, it was cold.  It was such a pleasant valley to look at we lingered a little longer than usual.  We had a big climb today.  We knew we had 20 kilometers to ride to the top.  The top is at the 60 kilometer mark, exactly.  We steadily climbed and the scenery just was incredible.  At times, I lost my breath just looking at the scenery, maybe it was the elevation.  We rode for an hour, rested for a half hour.  It was difficult to breath.

We descended quickly into Huallanca and went from pavement to dirt as well.  I started having difficulty riding, my bladder hurt and we needed to stop often.  We arrived in town about 4:30 pm and went to Hostel Yessica.  I had hoped that we would find Fritz there, as we had planned, but he was not there.  We settled in and went out to dinner.  We decided to go to bed early, it was a long day.  I was worried that something had happened to Fritz and talked with the Hostel owner about him arriving this evening or tomorrow.  At about 8:30 pm we had a knock on the door, it was Fritz.  I was very happy to see him.  It turns out that Fritz rode over the pass with another German cyclist, Tomas, and had arrived in Huallanca yesterday.  He was staying in another hostel down the street.

Ascended 715 m ( 2345 ft.) and descended 1120 m ( 3674 ft.)

50 km

(13 km dirt)

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INDEX #2: South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

1North and
Central America
3-30-02 to 4-17-03

2 South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

3 SE Asia / China
11-22-04 to

4 Australia
9-15-06 to 9-15-07

5 New Zealand
9-16-07 to 5-2-08
6 Alaska, Canada, and the USA
5-3-08 to 4-30-10
7 India. Nepal, and the Subcontinent
5-1-10 to present

(see all 3 book)

June 4 -  July 8, 2003
Ecuador #1
Quito to Riobamba, Ecuador

Cindie's Daily Journals
Ecuador #1

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Ecuador: Riding on top of the Southern Hemisphere

Best Place to see Pictures
Thumbnail Page of Pictures in Ecuador #1

Full size Picture Pages

- Quito The Old City
- The Equator "Mitad del Mundo"
- Volcano Tugurahua, Backpacking
- Banos, Ecuador Natural Hot Springs
- Quito to Latacunga, Ecuador
- The City of Latacunga, Ecuador
- Latacunga to Riobamba, Ecuador
- The Village of Mocha, Ecuador
- The City of Riobamba, Ecuador
- Other


July 9 - Aug 4, 2003
Ecuador #2
Riobamba to Macara, Ecuador
( Peruvian border)

Cindie's Daily Journals
Ecuador #2

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Ecuador #2: The Magic of the Andes

The Fastest Place to see Pictures
Thumbnail Page of  Pictures in Ecuador #2

Full size Picture Pages

- Riobamba to Alausi, Ecuador
- The City of Alausi, Ecuador
- Nariz Del Diablo - Train Ride
- Alausi to Cuenca, Ecuador
- The City of Cuenca, Ecuador
- Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador
- Loja to Macara, Ecuador


Aug 5 - Sept. 14, 2003
Peru #1
The Ecuador border to Huallanca, Peru

Cindie's Daily Journals

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Peru #1 Riding Between The Extremes

Best Place to see Pictures
Peru #1 THUMBS

Full size Picture Pages

- The Ecuador Border to Chiclayo, Peru
- Chiclayo to Trujillo, Peru
- Casa De Ciclista, Peru Cyclist House
- The Ruins of Chan Chan
- Ruins - Temple of the Moon and Sun
- Trujillo to Huallanca, Peru
- Huallanca to Huaraz, Peru
- Huarez to Pachapaque
- Pachapaqui to Huallanca


Sept. 15 - Oct. 31, 2003
Peru #2
Huallanca, Peru to
Copacabana, Bolivia

Cindie's Daily Journals

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Peru #2: Been Doing Some Hard Traveling

Best Place to see Pictures
Peru #2 THUMBS

Full size Picture Pages

- Huallanca to Huanuco
- Huanuco to La Oroya, Peru
- Arequipa, Peru
- Cusco, Peru
- Tambo Machay, Pucapucara, Qenqo
- Sacsayhuaman, Inca Ruin
- Machu Picchu #1
- Machu Picchu #2
- Machu Picchu #3
- Cusco to Santa Rosa, Peru
- Santa Rosa, Peru to Copacabana Bolivia
- Uros, Peru Lake Titicaca


November 1 - December 8, 2003
Copacabana to Villazon, Bolivia

Cindie's Daily Journals

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Bolivia: The Calm After the Storm.

Best Place to see Pictures
Bolivia THUMBS

Full size Picture Pages

- Copacabana, Bolivia on Lake Titicaca
- Todos Santos - Day of the Dead
- Copacabana to La Paz
- La Paz to Oruro
- Oruro to Quillacas
- Quillacas to Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
- Salar de Uyuni Salt Lake to The City of Uyuni

(December 9, 2003 - January 22, 2004)
NW Argentina
La Quiaca, to La Cueva, (border with Chile) Argentina

Cindie's Daily Journals
Cindie's North West Argentina Daily Journal

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Northwest Argentina: The Wrong Way In the Right Country 

Best Place to see Pictures
Pictures of  North West Argentina

Full size Picture Pages

- Quiaca to Tilcara
- Tilcara to Salta
- Salta to Cafayate
- Cafayate to Belen
- Belen to Mendoza
- Parque National Talampaya
- Valle De Luna Provincial Park
- Mendoza to La Cueva
- Aconcagua National Park

January 23 - February 29, 2004
Portillo, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina

Cindie's Daily Journals
Cindie's Chile Daily Journal

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)

Best Place to see Pictures
Thumbnails of Chile

Full size Picture Pages

- Portillo to Los Andes
- Temuco to Parqua National Conguillio
- Conguillio National Park to Villarrica
- Villarrica to Playa Pucara
- Playa Pucura to Puerto Pirihueico
- Bariloche, Argentina Velodrome

March 3, to 23, 2004
  Patagonia, South America
 Argentina and Chile

Cindie's Daily Journals

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)

Best Place to see Pictures
Patagonia THUMBS

Full size Picture Pages

- Southern Patagonia Birds
- Perito Moreno Glacier, (Before rupture)
- Perito Moreno Glacier (After rupture)
- Torres Del Paine National Park #1
- Torres Del Paine National Park #2
- Torres Del Paine National Park #3
- Torres Del Paine National Park #4
- El Chalten  - Fritz Roy
- Cuevas los Manos, Rock Art

- My First Jewish Passover
- Ski Argentina Cerro Cathedral
- Fall in Bariloche
- Cerro Campanerio
- Cerro Lopez
- Nordic Cross Country Skiing Bariloche, Argentina

1North and
Central America
3-30-02 to 4-17-03

2 South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

3 SE Asia / China
11-22-04 to

4 Australia
9-15-06 to 9-15-07

5 New Zealand
9-16-07 to 5-2-08
6 Alaska, Canada, and the USA
5-3-08 to 4-30-10
7 India. Nepal, and the Subcontinent
5-1-10 to present
Where am I  now

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